​​In The Shadow of Longs Peak

​Capitol Reef National Park

21 November 2015 - 28 November 2015

Capitol Reef National Park is at the settlement of Fruita, Utah.  We wonder if the towns of Fruita, Colorado and Fruita, Utah are somehow related.

Saturday, 21 November 2015:
We headed away from Longmont at 3:50 on Saturday, 21 November 2015.  We gave Dave and Ginni a call to keep them abreast of our plans then headed to Boulder, Hwy 93 ti I-70 then west to Palisade, arriving at the Wine Country Inn at about 8 PM.  For the first time ever, we ate supper in the restaurant there – I had the tenderloin (which was outstanding) and Gary the rib-eye. 

Sunday, 22 November 2015:
As always, the accommodations here were great, and after a good nights’ sleep and made to order omelet for breakfast, we were back on I-70, headed west.  After a quick stop at City Market for fresh sushi for tonight’s supper (a great find, thanks to Google) and then gas, and then we were on our way west, toward Green River, Utah.

We arrived at Fruita Utah at about 3 PM with the only stop being a gas-fill-up at Hanksville Utah.  We made a quick stop at the park headquarters and I purchase a map of hiking trails.

We head south on Scenic Drive to the campground which does not accept reservations so I was a bit leary about finding a spot but there were plenty of available spots.  We picked one that was open and in the sun.  We set up the tent and sunshade and kitchen.  I think next time we should bring the folding table and cook under the sunshade for it’s added warmth and social aspect:  Nothing beats the camaraderie of cooking and eating and warmth of the stove.

Anyway, once setup up, Ginni and Dave still had not arrived so we left our name on the post along with the paid receipt and headed up a short trail along the Fremont River.  The trail follows the river a ways then climbs steeply up.  We are running out of daylight so we stop and retrace our steps.  This trail runs along a narrow shelf with a steep drop.  Its been along time since I have encountered exposure and I step carefully.  Exposure will be a recurring theme on this trip.

We head back to camp.  Dave and Ginni have arrived but are on their own late afternoon hike up Cohab Canyon, whose trailhead is just across from the campground.  We start preparing supper, then spy Dave and Ginni.  We say our hellos and have supper.  It is cold so after a short while we turn in.  Seems like this is the coldest night. 

Wednesday 25 November 2015

Today’s designated hike is Capitol Gorge and "The Tanks".  The trailhead is down Scenic Road, a ways past the Grand Wash / Cassidy Arch Trailhead. 

The drive to the trailhead is, well, scenic, with lots of red and white outcroppings that make this place so magical.  Once the paved road ends, we continue on a good track to the trailhead.  As it turns out, Capitol Wash is one of the pioneer roads thru the reef.  "The Tanks" are catch basins of water.  Also, there is a pictograph panel and a pioneer register.

There is also another arch with a trail.  I am happy to not be doing that today, a day off from ‘exposure training’ though I know the more I hike in exposed places, the more comfortable it becomes.

We walk along the wash, pass by the pioneer register but do not see any pictographs.  As we pass a side canyon, Dave and Gary decide to investigate.  As much as it looks to lead to a "tank", I am not inclined to do another scare-myself-to-death scramble, so Ginni and I continue on.  Just around the bend is a trail junction sign for "The Tanks".  We wait a minute or two for the guys then start up the trail ourselves.  There are some scrambly spots but only one that is exposed and it is uphill so I can ignore it for the moment.  We pop out on a bench and look back down to the trail for Dave and Gary who are still not to be seen, so we continue along the trail, around a bend, then a step or 2 down to another bench.  Up ahead, Ginni spies Dave who is taking photos.  I stop, drop my pack but keep my camera, and side step around a waterhole.  I can either take a huge step up to the next layer but opt for a single traversing move, a bit technical but overall easier as it avoids the big step up.  I continue up the wash.  Gary and Ginni are on ahead.  I am not sure how far I want to go so slowly pick my way up a gully and follow, trying to keep them in sight. 

Anyway, soon everyone is headed back.  There is a beaten path and I think I recognize some spots but soon it feels like we have gone too far an we are now above the first trail, below the pool where we met.  We hope down then head back up to retrieve our packs, then down to the bottom of Capitol Gulch.

We continue down the wash.  At some point, we expect to reach the National Park boundary but we never get that far.  We do come across a 4ft cement dam that is not noted on the topo and is not mentioned in the trail descriptions.

We take a quick lunch break then head back.  As always, there are side canyons that beckon but we pass them by.

As we approach the trailhead, we now see the pictographs.  Very exquisite and I wonder about the symbolism.

We return to the car, just as it seems to be getting colder.

Friday 27 November 2015

Now it’s Friday, the last day of hiking.  We wake up to a dusting of snow.  There are a number of hikes we have not done but opt for the wagon loop.  It is up on a cedar mesa and partially along an old wagon loop.

 
The trailhead is again down the Scenic Road, between the trailheads for Grand Wash and Capitol Gulch.  We park at the pull-off on the road. 

I am surprised when I get out of the car and look down….the first step is pretty steep!   But then Gary points out a staircase which goes down and connects to the trail on the other side of the wash.  We head down and start along the trail.  It goes uphill at a steady angle but not too steep.  The snow provides a side contrast to the surrounding landscape and the clouds are still hanging low overhead. 

It seems like in no time we are at the junction for the loop.  We go right, as I am convinced that if we go right and continue uphill, we will reach a high point and then have a downhill run.  This part is a trail, not a wagon road and I wonder if we have taken a wrong turn.  After a bit, we reach a rock outcropping with great views to the west and we stop and take photos.  The light is quite diffused and very monochromatic and I check to be sure I haven’t turned mistakenly turned the color off.

We continue on.  We are still on a trail which soon opens into a wide path and it does have the look of an old road and continues that way until we are nearly back at the junction.  At one turn, it looks as if there is another road, but we do not explore.  We continue back to the trailhead though I stop a few times to take pictures. 

Once back at the trailhead, we decide to check out one more place today, the Hickman Bridge.  We stop at camp for a hot lunch of leftover chili then head east on hwy 24 past the pictographs to the Hickman Natural Bridge. 

The trails winds along the river for a short distance then starts climbing steeply up.  I have to say that I am beginning to not mind the exposure but I remind myself to be mindful. 

The trail tops out and hugs a wash with what appear to be the start of 3 small natural bridges.  Dave is close by taking photos of a cleft in the sandstone with remnants of a granary.  They are headed up while we continue up to a junction.  The bridge is located along a loop and is quite impressive.  We continue along the loop then head down the trail back to the car.  

Thursday 26 November 2015

This is the long drive day:  From the campground we back-track to Hwy 24, head east and then down the Notom road.  We wonder about the name of the road.  The Gazetteer shows a settlement named Notom but there does not seem anything settlement-like as we pass by. 

Our route of choice today is Red Canyon which the map shows beginning at the Cedar Mesa Campground.  Cedar Mesa is one of two ‘remote’ campgrounds and it is packed!  We decide to continue on and now our destination is Surprise Canyon. 

As we drive along, we pass the Burr Trail Road, the famed shortcut to Lake Powell.  We look off to the west and see a number of switchbacks cut into a cliff.  I am not sure that would be a choice route.  But from here going east, it seems pretty tame (and paved) and we decide we should check it out on another trip. 

Soon we are at the trailhead for Surprise Canyon, a pullout along the road, with enough parking for a couple of cars.

We park and start out.  The pamphlet indicates a trail which we start out on but we soon lose it and simply walk up the wash which enters a narrow canyon after a bit.  The canyon is much narrower than those of previous days and it is not long before we reach a chock-stone blocking the way.  I go to investigate.  Seems like it is possible to free climb it but not with a pack and coming down might be another story entirely.   No need to attempt as we back up a bit to a trail on the left which is not too bad so up we go. 

There is a photo op on a block at top that appears to be high above the wash. 

Next is a soft scramble back down into the wash.  We continue up till the next obstacle that we bypass on the right. 

I decide I am done and find a comfy spot.  Gary continues up.  Dave has already been up and back so he and Ginni head back down for some lunch.

After a rest I decide to continue up but don’t get far before Gary before Gary returns.  We both turn around, join Dave & Ginni, and make our way back down.  Before doing so, I peek down that chock-stone to see if down climbing is doable.  Maybe.  With skill and practice.

Once out of the canyon, we do find the trail and take that back to the car and return to camp.

Saturday 28 November 2015

We head home after checking out the pictograph panel.

Tuesday 24 November 2015:

We are up fairly early.  It was not nearly as cold overnight.  For breakfast Gary makes waffles which are very good if a bit sugary with all the syrup I pour on.  Our planned hike today is Cohab Canyon.  The trailhead is across the road from the campground, so there is no need to drive.  It’s pretty darn steep uphill climb and is also kind of exposed.  I preserve and we reach the top where it turns into a nice wide washy type of canyon with the same steep walls as Grand Wash.  We take a side trip into one or two side canyons that are short but pretty cool.  We continue downward to a trail junction.  At this point, we can either continue down the canyon to Hwy 24 or upward toward Cassidy Arch where we were yesterday.

We start climbing upward and I am beginning to feel light-headed.  We stop for a few minutes rest then I decide to head back to camp and Gary accompanies me.  I continue to not feel good until we are about halfway down the first steep pitch, then slowly improve.  Once back at camp, I sit and relax and do a drawing.

Later, when Dave and Ginni return, we drive up to park headquarters then up to Panorama Point to check the weather (we have cell service there)  and to photograph.  There were nice views of the Henry Mountains in the distance and cool panoramas of red and white desert stone.

Monday 23 November 2015
We wake up the next morning, with Gary getting up first.  I am savoring my rest but by 8 AM need to heed a call of nature.  Having a warm bathroom nearby is a real treat.  We make coffee, eggs, sausage, breakfast burritos and make plans for the day. 

We decide on Cassidy Arch and Grand Wash.  The trailhead for these is further along the’Scenic Drive’, beyond the campground perhaps about 4 miles and the road is paved.  We cross several washes and I see in my mind’s eye the full washes in the San Rafael Swell that October a few years back.  Shortly, we arrive at a very nice trailhead and start up toward Cassidy Arch.

The trail first goes into Grand Wash then makes a sharp left, up and along an exposed ledge, though there is a low wall of sorts on the exposed side.  The trail climbs quickly but at an even grade.  And uphill is always easier in terms of exposure and I try to not think about the return trip.  There are several spots where we are further away from the edge and I savor these.
 
The landscape is outstanding!  Rock everywhere, red and white and exquisite patterns of desert varnish.  We walk around a corner then down again and across a wide flat but very exposed area.  I freeze for a moment but Dave is encouraging and I manage the one or two steps down.  Then more flatish rock, more exposure and finally we climb up and down one last time and we are at the arch. 

Ginni walks down and across the top of the arch for a photo op while I keep my distance.  Gary has found a secure seat a bit farther away so I go up and join him.  We watch as others circle the arch and the opening.

Now for the trip back.  Not as bad as anticipated except for 1 steep downward switchback where I hesitate then slowly move down.

Before long we are back in Grand Walsh and we hike down a ways.  These kind of hikes are my favorite:  Wide sandy washes, steep walls, and as always cool rock formations. 

There are a couple of side canyons that look like a good place to explore but these will be for another day.

It is starting to get chilly and we find one last bit of sun, have a snack, then turn and head back.  It seems like in no time we are back at the car.  We drive back to camp.  I start supper which is gingered shrimp pasta and turns out quite yummy though it seems like a lot of work.

It’s not nearly as cold tonight as it was last night.  Ginni and Dave have brought firewood and they stoke up a fire.

All is well!