In The Shadow of Longs Peak
Yampa River
South Beach to Duffy Mountain
07 May 2021 to 10 May 2021
Our first official out of town trip of retirement. (Though we did do that overnight new moon trip to Jackson Reservoir in mid-April, though it was cold and cloudy overnight, so no star gazing which had been the plan).
For this Yampa trip, South Beach to Duffy Mountain with the Rocky Mountain Canoe Club, it is still winter. It is predicted that snow will start falling overnight on Sunday. Waking up, packing up and paddling out in the cold and snow on Monday does not have much appeal.
Friday 07 May 2021
We were packed up in 45 minutes and headed out of town by 11 or so, after a stop at Whole Foods for sushi for supper. Once started, we had to retrace our steps since I did not close and lock the upstairs windows.
For a second time, headed out of town. We stopped in Edwards where we filled up on gas, then west to the Wolcott Exit (east of Dotsero and Glenwood Springs) and north on CO 131 thru Toponas. I notice signs for places that were a ‘gateway’ to the Flattops, notably Stillwater Reservoir, which we had looked down on from one of our Flattop back-pack trips. Pretty country and a good place to come back and explore. And very different country from the mountain landscape east of the divide. Different from the Grand Junction area and Southwest Colorado as well. There are park-like spaces and aspens fading into the Flattops.
Besides Tonopas, we pass several other small towns and pick up US 40 east of Steamboat, where we make a stop for additional supplies.
Then back on US 40, heading west thru Milner and Hayden. Next is Craig where we will turn south on CO 13 to the South Beach Access. We arrive between 4 – 4:30, making the drive around 4 ½ hours. Gary thought it might have been better to come up US thru Empire. We can try that next time.
There are already some RMCC folks there, Fran as well as Louise.
The temperature is pleasant but not warm.
There is no toilet paper in the bathroom, but we have come prepared as this is often the case.
After sushi & cocktails and a bit of socializing, we set up the bivy and climb in. It is not too cold so that is good.
Saturday, 08 May 2021
The forecast is for rain in the morning. We luck out. It is overcast but dry.
Dan’s meeting time is 8 AM, so we are up by 7 AM and put away gear. I heat water for coffee, but I do not have an appetite for breakfast so skip it for now.
Beside Dan and his wife, other people on this trip are Karen A, Kathryn and her significant other Chet and another person. These 3 are rowing a dory.
We pack boats, wheel them over to the put-in, pack some more, then gather round for shuttle planning.
Once the shuttle drivers return, we set off. The flow is about 3 mph, so getting in and ferrying is not a problem. Nice for the first river outing of the year. This is the first river trip in a couple of years. According to my notes, the last time I paddled a river was the South Platte, Evans to Kersey in May of 2019.
This turns out to be the warmest day of this outing and is windy in spots. I end up putting on my warmest gloves which limits my picture taking.
The landscape reminds me of the North Platte between Saratoga – rolling hills, some cliffs, lots of cottonwoods.
We paddle 12 miles and arrive at camp. The paddle time was about 4 hours.
The wind does not come up as high as predicted so the group determines a fire is in order. The warmth does feel nice as it has gotten a bit chilly.
Our supper was chili and cornbread.
I am tired and fretting about tomorrow as I do not want to camp the extra night and wake up to snow on Monday. But also, I do not want to abandon the group.
Sunday 09 May 2021
We are ready to launch by 8 AM or so. It was around 30 degrees when we got up and is not much warmer when we launch but luckily there is no wind.
We paddle steadily till noon and stop at a camp called ‘Bubba’s Beach’. This would be the camp for those spending a second night. We have gone 16 of the 20 miles to the take-out. The dory is not far behind.
The decision is made that everyone would continue to the take-out at Duffy Mountain. I am relieved and enjoy this last stretch, having finally warmed up.
It does not take long to reach the take-out. We unpack, load up the truck and are on our way by 4 PM. We swing by the put-in so we can take a waypoint then take CO 13 south to Rifle, another road I have never been on. Again, a different landscape and has access to the Flattops. We make a gas stop in Rifle then are on our way east.
I am relieved that the road is clear and nothing is coming out of the sky until we reach the east side of the Eisenhower Tunnel, where it is snowing but not too hard. This eventually turns to rain but stops before we reach Golden. It’s dry when we reach Longmont and get unloaded before it starts to rain.
It rains and snows overnight. Gary calls in the morning and mentions its 37 degrees and snowing in Craig.
I am relieved he is good with the early escape decision.
As I write this, I realize that I was so focused on the incoming storm that do not remember much of the particulars of the river or the landscape. It is a great stretch of river and I want to do it again.
There were sunbows, rings around the sun on Saturday that were still visible when we got off the river.
There was the soft rise of hills, slightly eroded in places (though eroded is a bit too harsh, worn may be a better word, perhaps soft hills with hollows.
The river is straight-forward, braided in a few places.
The sign at the put-in mentioned where are red vs blue signs, indicated private vs public land.
Oh, and in one place we could see sandhill cranes.