In The Shadow of Longs Peak
Niobrara River
23 May 2024 thru 27 May 2024
Thursday, 23 May 2024
Our first outing of 2024 is to Smith Falls State Park and the Niobrara River with Rocky Mountain Canoe Club. There were to be two days on the river: Saturday the put-in is at The Cornell Bridge and take-out at Smith Falls State Park; Sunday the start is Smith Falls with the take-out at Sunnyvale, a private access area.
Our plan was to leave a day earlier than usual, so that we could paddle at Merritt Reservoir on Friday.
We were on the road just after 10 AM (Mountain Time) and arrived at Smith Falls State Park just after 6 PM (Central Time), so 7 hours drive time. The weather was good for the drive, mostly tail winds though a bit of a crosswind once we got on I-80 near the Colorado/Wyoming border.
At North Platte we exit the interstate travel north on US 83, toward Valentine and thru the undulating Sandhills of Western Nebraska. Seems like when we drove thru here 2 years ago, it was much greener, though the temperature was close to 90 for that trip. There is an earth sculpture back east named “Storm King Wavefield” by Maya Lin and I wonder if the Sandhills were her inspiration though the write-ups of that work claim to be the ocean. The Sandhills do look like ocean waves. I would like to come back and photograph along US 83 but it would have to be early morning or late afternoon to capture the look and feel of the landforms.
We continued north, over the Dismal River. Past it’s “Scenic By-Way”, where we always get a chuckle!
As we approach Valentine, there is a line of dark clouds hanging over the Niobrara Valley. We press on, into Valentine, wig-wagging on neighborhood streets then east out of town on NB 12.
Just beyond Valentine is a sign for Ft. Niobrara and Niobrara River Access. This will be our put-in on Saturday. The clouds continue their ominous build-up. Smith Falls State Park is our destination, about 15 miles east of Valentine.
We turn south off the highway, into the park and to the office. In years past, there have been “camper packets” taped to the door for those with reservations but no packets today. I headed back to the truck, stopping to pay the daily use fee for 3 days. We head down the hill to the campground.
We reserved campsite 17, along the river. We pull in and start to unload and work on getting the tent in place before the rain starts. Overhead are those udder-like storm clouds.
The ranger comes by and asks if we were going to boat this evening (which we were not) and mentions funnel clouds were sighted at Merritt Reservoir, an hour of so southwest of here.
Dennis O pulls in just after us. He helps secure the tent up while I get all the gear inside. Gary starts to get the coals going for tonight’s supper. Next is the sunshade. We finish just as it starts to sprinkle.
Before long, it’s pouring down rain and the wind swirls around. We stay somewhat dry under the sunshade though we do need to hold it in place. But it does stay up.
I trot back to the truck for my raincoat and again for dry clothes, hat, gloves, wool socks and hiking shoes. I am not cold despite being damp but am much warmer after changing.
Our dinner of chicken cordon-blue is done and having a warm meal is worth the effort. Next, we tidy up, batten things down and head to the tent where it’s warm and dry. The rain continues.I sleep well. Gary is up and down a few times. I hear him stir but easily fall back asleep.
Friday, 24 May 2024
I am up at 8:30 and head over to the bathroom. By the time I am back, I am ready to think about making a cup of coffee. Then a leisurely breakfast, Gary’s omelets in a bag.
Then we get ready and head to Merritt for a tour.
Our original plan was to paddle at Merritt, but it was chilly and overcast when we got up this morning, not to mention windy so we opted for a driving tour.
From Valentine, we head south to the reservoir then turn off the main road, driving west along the north side of the reservoir. We turn off again, into the Powder Horn Area. The map shows a road going around this arm of the reservoir. We do not drive far, as the improved gravel road ended at a boat ramp, though there was a 2 track continuing west with a “travel at your own risk” sign. We were not feeling risky so chose not to continue.
We headed back to the main road then continued north. The road was paved and seemed to lead further and further away from the reservoir. Looking at the map, it continues north, crosses the Niobrara and ends at US 20.
We drive for about 15 mintes then turn around. As with US 83, there are lots of ‘pondettes’, one with a windmill smack in the center and another with what appeared to be a pair of swans.
At our turn-around spot, we stop and I take a couple of photos. Not the right time of day to capture the volume and depth of the hills but at least they will show the contour. I could use photoshop to transform the hills to color. And accentuate the forms as they are not all alike.
We are back at the main road, where we first turned and followed along the north end of the reservoir. Now we turn south.
There are a number of access points and we spent time checking out each. Most have at least a small number of camping sites. Not all have restrooms. Not all have water. Some have both. Some have multiple camp sites, both basic and electric.
Further south is an area named Boardman Creek Area with sites backing up to the water. This is a narrower arm of the lake so it would make a nice base for sea kayaking: we would be protected from the wind and could paddle up the narrow arm to the end or, if conditions allowed paddle north in the main part of the reservoir.
The Snake River Area is the next and last stop. We drive down a paved road for perhaps five miles to a boat ramp and a camping area with two restrooms. The sites are basic and back up to the water – perfect for a paddling base camp! There is one in particular, #20, at the very end, though the road getting there was steep, and we did not get close enough to see if the site was flat.
Our conclusion would be to arrive here on a Monday, as there would probably be no need for reservations. All for another outing.
We head back to camp.
Gary started the coals and we had pizza for supper, always an excellent choice. (After a period of trial and error, we started par-baking the crust. Then, we only need to assemble them and pop them into a Dutch Oven, load with toppings, and bake!)
I was thinking that before leaving, we need to walk down to the footbridge across the river and check out the falls. Though we never did.
At 8:35 PM the sun had just dipped down behind the hills.Birds: Goldfinches; eastern kingbird, white-chested, thin beak, black tail with a white stripe. And perhaps an oriole or a tanager, very orange with yellow. Lots of robins.
Saturday, 25 May 2024
When we wake up it’s quite overcast but not cold. Overnight, I wished I had zipped up my sleeping bag as it was a bit chilly toward morning – I lost my hat and my down jacket were misplaced but once located and pulled up over me, I was fine.
We were up around 7:30. First is a trot to the restroom…no line this morning but also no toilet paper.
Breakfast preparations -breakfast omelets in a bag - were efficient. And we were ready in time for the 9:30 scheduled departure time. Our launch spot is 10-15 miles westward, back toward valentine, just below the Cornell Dam. There is a $1 launch fee.
I am surprised there are no other parties here. Two years ago, our last paddle here, the place was packed!
We unload boats and unpack gear. The weather is a bit iffy and it sprinkled a bit on the drive here. Right now, it is not windy and it is warm enough to paddle.
After an hour or so folks are back from the shuttle and we get ready to launch.
Gary & I volunteer to sweep.
We picked the launch ramp furthest west since it has the largest eddy.
I ferry across and am able to paddle upstream which surprises me since the water is moving right along at 1000 cfs. For once I am not plagued by self-doubt concerning my ability to paddle safely in moving water.
Finally, everyone has launched. Gary gets in and we are all moving down river.
Our first stop, after about 15 minutes is Fort Falls. I don’t get out but do take a way point.
Then everyone is back in their boats and we move down river. We stop for lunch in less than an hour, at a nice spot where a group of sandstone boulders form an eddy. Lunch is tuna. Next time, I will bring packets of ranch dressing to add.
Then back on the river. It seems like in no time we are at Berry Bridge, so now it’s just over 4 miles to the takeout.
And then we are done! We take out at Nichols Landing, downstream from our campsite. Boat are hauled up. I leave mine here along with many others, Gary wheels his back to camp along with my gear.
Once mine is turned over and tied, I head back to camp. First, get the gear out to dry; Second, open a chair and get a beer; Third start the cowboy caviar for supper. We are both tired but not exhausted.
At 6 we headed up to the covered pavilion for a potluck supper.
I decided to not hang around long and head back to camp. Glad I did! The sky is quite ominous to the west. I get all the gear inside the truck and tidy up the kitchen area. It starts to rain, and I head for the tent. A nice thunder shower which lasted an hour or so.
I read for a bit then settle down for the night.
This is living!
Sunday, 26 May 2024
We wake around 7 to a full sun, finally! The first full blue sky we've seen since leaving home on Thursday!
Off to the restroom then back to coffee & breakfast, then getting ready for the day. Gary wheels his boat to the landing; I pack for the day, getting everything arranged. We drive to the landing. Gary takes off with the others to run the shuttle. I load my boat then work on writing. Life is good.
Now for sights & sounds: First, when we woke up this morning, there was steam coming off the river. A cool sight! Evidently, it was quite foggy in the early morning though much of it had burned off by the time we got up. Yesterday, the river was languid and flat, lined with all colors of green, all shapes of trees.
On the south side are a couple of steep banks topped with trees... I wonder if eventually they will come down as the soil looks soft and sandy.
Folks are back from the shuttle and there is lots of scurrying around; some folks are putting in at their camp so we look upriver and watch, waiting for them to come.
It does not take long for everyone to arrive and we launch and are underway. As I mentioned before, the sun is out, and the sky is blue.
The landscape is similar to yesterday’s: trees fully leaved out in all shades of green. Tall, wide, plump with green leaves. Green grass along the bottom land. Gary made a statement: “sun dappled leaves”.
The river here is wide and consistent and curves back & forth. There are areas of flat water intermixed with areas of small waves and rapids.
About 4 miles downstream is the Brewer Bridge, a public access area with a campground and picnic area.
We continued, stopping at Cedar Falls. Again, I do not get out. The river flows over a series of flat rocks just below the water’s surface. I take photos, trying to capture the reflections. There is also a cool yellow-and-black butterfly flitting about which I try to photograph but not successfully.
Again, we headed downstream. A herd of cows populated the south bank, mooing and looing. There are private campgrounds along the north bank.
I see a sign that says "stay left” which I mistake for the warning sign at Fritz’s Island where we do need to ‘stay left’. Ahead, I see the group has pulled out. We are just above Fritz’s Island.
We proceed as a group, staying to the left. There is a rapid at the top of the right side but the rapid itself is out of sight. At the bottom of the island is a creek where we pull out for lunch and a hike to Stairstep Falls.
Before we get out, Gary and I paddle up the left side of the island to the bottom of the drop. The rapid itself is limestone, six or so feet high. The water coming over is thin. It would be hard to negotiate without scraping along and tipping over. In addition, there is a circulating hole at the bottom.
We turn and join the others for lunch then stroll up to the falls.
We are on the water again and it seems in no time I see the Sunnyvale building, our takeout. The takeout spot itself is a very small eddy so I ferry to the north side, moving slowly to let the others unload first. Gary is on the far bank. I slide into a micro eddy, just below a tree and wait. Gary gets out first and I follow.
Another great river run!
We unpack the boats and load boats and gear into the truck and soon we are on our way.
Back at camp we have a beer. Gary starts supper, burger w/ rice-a-roni, topped with cornbread, a welcome meal after a day on the river.
We put up the sunshade in case of rain then crawl into bed.
Monday, 27 May 2024
Monday morning is bright & sunny.
Gary makes sausage and waffles. Folks come to help us eat.
We work on breaking camp, packing up and are driving away by 11:30 Central Time and are home by 5:30 Mountain Time.
Another good trip!
It was nice to get away and even nicer to begin to feel confident on moving water.