Tuesday, 11 July 2023
We were up at the appointed hour of 5:30 before the sun took the chill out of the air. It was a bit breezy when we first got up but, by the time we paddled away at 7, the water was calm and glassy and remained so for most of the day. We pass the Blacks Fork Arm confluence with then take a break on the north side of the beach where Road 11 comes down to the lake.
It’s still 3+ miles to Buckboard Marina, so we start paddling again but soon the wind comes up. We paddle towards the shore and find a nice camping spot, out of the wind, though still 2 miles or so from Buckboard.
Another good day. We paddled from 7 to 11:15, then again from 11:45 to 12:15. Distance was around 15 miles.
In The Shadow of Longs Peak
Monday, 10 July 2023
We were up at the appointed hour of 7 AM with a few drops of rain, packed up and were on our way. Our first stop was Crystal Springs Marina, to leave Dave’s car in the long term parking area. Then on to Green River via Manila Utah, a stop at McDonald’s for breakfast, arriving at the put-in which is a boat-ramp at Straton-Meyers Park around 8:30.
Once there, we unloaded and packed boats and gear. Gary and Werner head out to leave a Gary’s truck at the Buckboard Access, on the west side of the Reservoir, off WY 530. It’s a 60 minute drive there and back. They will leave Werner’s truck at Smith’s grocery store, about ¾ mile from the boat ramp.
It was plenty hot while waiting and I move slowly. Every now and then with a cloud cover and slight breeze provide a welcome reprieve from the heat. There were a couple of bald eagles flying on the island across from us
We were on the water and paddling away at 12:45. As we launched, dark clouds were beginning to move in, leaving me with a feeling of doom but the sky became clearer as we paddled south, and it did not seem quite as hit. The flow 2 days ago showed this section at 3000 CFS, so the water was moving steadily but not pushy.
We paddle and paddle. I remember the distance to the lake being about 10 miles. As time went on, I attempted to discern where we might be using the map and GPS, but the map on the GPS did not seem to match the paper map and neither seems to match the topography. Later I realized we were not as far along as I imagined and eventually everything did match up.
I keep watching the bank to determine if we are still paddling in moving water, and it seems like we are. But then, there are grebes. Carol mentioned later she expects that was about where the river met the lake.
Using the GPS, we are nearly our campsite of 2017, on the west side of the river near Boat Bottom and Whiskey Bend. I look ahead and there is a heard of cows! So we begin to look on the east side. Gary is ahead and turns into a cove, a perfect campsite, spacious with plenty of room for 3 tents.
Home for the night.
I message Kari and Jordan via the in-reach, the first time we have done that.
Friday, 14 July 2023
We were up again at 5:30. Finally, it seems, we have the drill down. It does not seem quite as chilly. Packing up is no longer an ordeal.
Our destination today is the Hideout Boat-In Camp which is at the southern edge of the lake, on the Utah side. We paddle over to the east side of the lake in front on the uplift walls and turn south. It seems like we should be seeing the buoys that mark the Utah-Wyoming border but it’s a good hour before we see them. We gather around, taking photos, then continue toward the Lucene Marina area, taking a quick break just beyond. We rounded a corner, and the telltale uplifted crimson wall appeared and we enter Flaming Gorge. Next is Horseshoe Canyon, which should be quieter than the main channel the power boats use. The walls of Horseshoe Canyon are stunning with layers and layers of time compressed into folds and bends. I have heard canyon wrens here last year but none this year, though Werner mentions there is a rock wren. About 3 quarters thru, a fleet of 3 powerboats pass us at full speed making for interesting waves as well as lots of noise. We come out of Horseshoe and turn south toward into the main channel. The powerboat traffic increases and it seems like they all are loud, fast and careless.
We reach Kingfisher Island and paddle into the channel on its east edge, crossing over to that side. Then, we are at the end of Kingfisher and cross the channel on its south side. Hideout is in sight across the bay. Not too much further to go.
Soon, we are pulling up on the beach, in the same area as last year. We walk up to the information board. Just beyond that are 2 sites, one of each side of the path, both with a table and 3 tent pads between them and no reservation signs. Carol sits at the table as the occupier. Others start investigating. I walk thru what feels like the whole camp and there are no other empty or unreserved sites. Eventually I come to site 15 which is empty and unreserved. From there it is a short walk to the dock and the houseboat for the campground host. We chat a minute. Later, I realize it is the same host as last year. Turns out, site 15 is reserved. The spot near the information board is site #0 and is the only site that is first-come-first-serve and the 3 pads are all part of one site. It use to be the site the campground host occupied before the houseboat became headquarters. I head back there with the news. There was a remote site just beyond camp which may be more private, but we decided to stay here and take advantage of flush toilets and running water.
We unload and setup camp. Gary and I take one tent pad and Dave the other in the 2-pad site. Carol and Werner occupy the lower site.
Our original plan called for a rest day here but we decide to continue on. Its pretty busy here plus hot so it’s unclear that would be restful.
Thursday, 13 July 2023
We were up again at 5:30. Today is Gary’s day to feel like he could sleep another hour or two. But he perseveres and is up before long.
Our spot in the cove was very protected and it did not seem like there was much wind during the night.
It was chilly again this morning and I am glad to have a hat and that my clothes were in the foot of the sleeping bag overnight.
We are again in the water by 7. The sky has a scattering of small, broken up clouds, those that always seem to me to be unique to a western sky.
We headed down-lake toward Anvil Draw. In no time we can see the gas-line that spans the lake though at this point it is at least 6 miles away. The wind is not calm but I would estimate that its less than 5 mph and it’s a tail wind – anytime I stop paddling I find I am being pushed gently forward.
Our original plan was to stop near Anvil but we are making good progress. The weather is holding, so we continue.
Dave and Gary have pulled ahead but now have pulled out at the gas-line and are checking it out. Someone suggests stopping here but we decide to paddle to out camp of 2020, more secluded and protected from the wind.
Carol pointed out later that the landscape changes at the gas-line from the soft rounded bluffs of Wyoming to the uplifted sandstone of Utah and the Unita Mountains.
We paddle on. There are 2 uplifted walls ahead on the west side of the lake. Our camp of 202 is across from these on these on the east side. We pick a point and head there, round a corner and another and are at our destination. There are a couple of rocks out of the water at the edge of the cove, giving it the feeling of a lagoon.
Dave and Gary pull out and begin exploring. Carol, Werner and I round the next corner into a bigger bay, going past 2 scenic coves, both without an inch of level space. We enter a third cove, much larger than the first two, and it looks like it has lots of choice spots for camping along with rock outcroppings which remind me of Lake Powell.
There is a road coming down into this cove. Gary and I go for a walk. Not too far back are pipe, which appear to be associated with the gas-line we passed. We continue up the hill and peer into the cove we paddled to which leads to yet another cove (not apparent from the water). A good place to come back to explore.
Saturday, 15 July 2023
We were up again at 5:30 and ready to paddle away at 6:50, our earliest leaving time.
Today’s route will take us along the narrow canyon at the southern end of the lake, ending at Crystal Springs Marina where Dave’s car is parked.
There are high canyon walls along here. Some creeks do come in on the south side. Another area I would like to come back to and investigate further. We paddle. There is a huge osprey nest on top of a rock on the south side. Last year the rock was out of the water, today it is in the channel. I get a photo of Dave paddling past it.
We continue. I can see the roof of the Red Canyon Visitors center so once around the bend, I take out the GPS and stick to the south side. I have a waypoint for the Goosenecks Boat-in Camp which has been abandoned. I get closer and closer. Up ahead there is a gulch that comes down to the lake. Carol and Werner are headed there, and my GPS point is leading me there so I pull up as close as I can. This is a good place for a break. I get out then back in, around the corner and begin to head across the mouth of a small cove. I look up and see the sign “Goosenecks”! This is the exact spot we stopped at last year that Richard got out and investigated for a possible camp but it was short on level spots. Mystery solved.
We continue. At the next bend is our last nights camp of last year, We discussed staying here but at this point, it is still pretty early and I think we are all headed to the barn.
We arrive at Crystal Springs around noon.
A very good day and good paddle!
There is some discussion about where to land. The beach next to the boat ramp is pretty skimpy but anything else would require a longer carry of boats and gear. So we take turns debarking, unloading and carrying boats and gear further up the boat ramp and out of the way. Finally, we all are out. All boats carried up. Dave gets his boat and gear loaded and soon he, Gary and Werner are off to Buckboard to get the trucks. Carol and I work at carrying all the gear up to where the boats are.
It takes close to 3 hours before the guys are back. It seems like in no time, gear is loaded, Carol and Werner headed south and we north to I-80 and home, arriving around 11:30.6 days for what we had estimated to be a 10 day paddle. All good company. All good paddling, weather and camping. An excellent adventure.
Wednesday, 12 July 2023
We were up again at 5:30. I am not a morning person and am not particularly inspired by these early starts. It was slightly warmer today. Having my hat helped. My boating clothes were at the foot of my sleeping bag, so they were pre-heated. I am tired and cranky but will myself to get up and get going. Even the rattlesnake in the rocks Carol and Werner used to as tie-downs thought it was cold.
Due to earlier starts, I have only been bringing the bare essentials to the tent so packing up is fairly efficient: first meds and eyedrops, then getting dressed then packing the down jacket and sleeping bag in one dry bag; next deflate the sleeping pad, roll it up, and pack it with PJs and hat. Start a cold brew. Snacks for breakfast are already in the spray skirt.
Launch. Paddle. Ideally take pictures. Ideally enjoy this.
Our first stop is Buckboard Marina to run the mini shuttle. It takes less than an hour to get there. Gary drives the truck down the boat ramp and loads the food for the remaining trip. I load up on cold beer and ice. Then fill the empty water bottles.
Gary and Werner are off to Green River to get Werner’s truck. I work on re-loading and re-packing the boat and taking out whatever I have determined is excess, a partly filled ikea bag of small stuff to leave in the truck.
Then we are on the water again, paddling away at 10:15. My GPS shows “bird island”, our bailout wind camp of last year, to be about 3 miles away. I would really like to paddle around this island and see exactly what kind of birds are there, After some discussion, we paddle in that direction. The disadvantage to this route is that it is across open water. To stick to the west side would require us to paddle along a wide arc since the lake here forms large bay and is bordered by a high cliff. If the wind did come up we may not find a place to bail out. Crossing the lake to the east side would initially provide camping but before long also is bordered by a rock band with no place to camp.
Off we go. I don’t use the GPS but instead head for the end of the cliff band as a guide. Before long, I realized I needed a comfort stop so head for what I think is the nearest beach. Though turns out it is not close enough.
We rafted up and decided to turn east to the island which is just to our north. We do hear a flock of birds, which seem to be mostly gulls. I forgot to take a picture which would have been nice to have to compare to last year. What strikes me is how big it is, and it looks like there may be camping possibilities.
We continue east, heading for a point that stands out in contrast to the dark cliffs beyond. Then we turn south toward Brinegar/Holmes crossing. Soon we pass our camping site of 2017 and head to yet another point that ends yet another band of cliffs and turn the corner into a large bay, paddle to the far side and begin to look for camping possibilities, though there are not a huge number of flat sites.
Gary gets out, hikes around and finds a huge flat spot at the top of a hill. There is concern due to the fact there is no protection from the wind which is beginning to pick up. Carol and Werner paddle across the bay to a spot that looks pretty flat and green from where we are standing. In the meantime, I paddle back to get Gary’s boat and tow it over to him.
Carol and Werner have a good report. We decided that the wind could definitely be an issue, so we headed across and find 3 flat spots, set up camp, put up the sunshade, go for a dip, have a beer, supper, then tidy up.
By now the sun is below the ridge behind us, and the shade is pleasant. A good day!
I have regained my enthusiasm for this trip. It helped that the shuttle was successful. It helped that we got past bird island without encountering the high winds of last year. Having a short paddling day today also helped.
From this point, the lake narrows in width, limiting the number of long open water crossings. And as we paddle toward Anvil and Lucene, there is ample camping, at least of the east side of the lake.
Flaming Gorge
09 July 2023 – 15 July 2021
Another to Flaming Gorge, this one to put in on the Green River, at Green River, Wyoming and taking out 80 miles later at the dam.
Sunday, 09 July 2023
We were up at 7 AM and ready to get going, unusual for us since we both tend to like to sleep late. My gear and the boats were loaded by 8:45. Dave arrived by 9 AM and we were driving away by 9:15.
We head over to US 287 then north to Fort Collins and Whole Foods to pick up sushi for supper. Then, north again, to Laramie and the Wyoming Invasive Species Inspection Station. From there, we hop on I-80, heading to Rawlins for a gas stop at Flying J, just west of Rawlins. The west again to Rock Springs and the exit for US191 South which will take up to the Flaming Gorge Dam. We have reservations for sites 16 and 17 at Deer Run Campground, which is beyond the dam, on the south side of the lake and very close to Crystal Springs Marina and Boat Ramp, which will be our takeout.
Our other 2 paddling mates, Carol and Werner, are already there and have set up in site 17.
We pull into site 16 and work on setting up our bivy, having a beer, having supper, transferring Dave’s boat and gear to Gary’s truck since we’ll be leaving his car at the take-out. It’s calm here, a treat after driving into the wind all day on I-80.